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Discussion in 'Auto Modifications Section' started by nirtime, Mar 24, 2015.
the tappets making noise already??? interestiung....
Engine: 4D56 Non-turbo 2.5L Diesel.
Previously been using Castrol diesel engine oil changing anywhere between 5000-7000km and in 2010 I started to sell Royal Purple and Amsoil range of synthetic fluids. So on my next service I had a dilema. It was obvious I had to switch to an oil that claims to extend oil drain intervals, reduce engine wear etc. But the question was which one, Amsoil or Purple??? I ended up going with 15W40 Royal Purple in the engine and Amsoil severe Gear 75W90 in box and diff. No problems whatsoever up to this day. Zero oil leaks, I noticed the engine temp gauge went lower. I tried a few 15,000km oil drain intervals, however, I did change the oil filter every 5000km. When I could afford to change engine oil sooner I did.
Now the real question everyone wants to know is which oil is best? Which name pops up more often? Who's rating up what? Well, what I learned is that it depends on your driving style and any modifications. Also listen to what has been tried and tested and suits your budget. Choose the correct viscosity recommended by your MANUFACTURER. Synthetic-blended oils do not last as long as fully-synthetic.
Amsoil 10W30 and 10W40.... $290/gal, $75/qt Severe Gear $115/qt
RP 10W30 and 15W40 $295/gal, $77/qt, Max ATF $125/qt
open Mon-Sat. Ph: 780-6002
Yep. Last time I will be using this Magnatec yes. Going back to Amsoil or Royal Purple in 10W40.. Both were very good. Made the car feel light and idling was very quiet (stock 4G18 SOHC 1.6 at 220,000kms).
Lmao wth, magnatec is the semi synthetic right?
That's some good prices there. I get my redline a couple dollars cheaper only because I know the dealer he lets me get it for the wholesale price. Tried pricing redline outside and it was about $90.
From everything I read it seems that RP, Amsoil and Redline are all excellent brands that surpass the manufacturers requirements. You would be safe to go with any one of them. Just depends on personal preference and price.
Yea bro, semi synthetic or a synthetic blend as they call it.
Not leaving this for 5000Km na. Will change as the new year is upon us and the festivities die down.
That is pressure yes.
So far I switched to Valvoline Fully Syntethic a few months ago. 10w 30 in the 2tr, its been running just as good with it. No oil burn, no level drops.
Just did service on Hilux Vigo doing only 17,600 km mileage. First two oil changes used Shell R4 15W40 which is mineral and it worked ok so I decided to upgrade to Shell R6 full synthetic 10W40. I have no complaints. It works fine but since the engine is so new I don't extend drain intervals too much past 5000km. What I also want to share with you guys is how to do your own oil analysis. We all know a proper oil analysis is done under laboratory conditions. Since we don't own a lab or know where does this locally we have to rely on our what???? .........Wits ....lol. So while accurately monitoring increase in mileage, pull the dipstick at intervals and observe the oil colour. this tells you how quickly contaminants are trapped in the oil. Lightly rub a little oil between your thumb and first finger. If it feels slippery you still good. If it doesn't feel slippery, needs changing. Also feel for stickiness which is a sign of sludge and hardly ever present in synthetics. This has been your Streetwise tip for today :boom:
I learnt something there man...I normally pull the tip stick and see how the oil on it looks like if it dripping off it like water but never go over the 5000 mark with any oil...gdi engines a bit funny
^^And that's still good to do. Checking your engine oil level is a basic step you think everyone can do for themselves. What about those who say "It now come back from the mechanic, the oil supposed to be good" and "Ah go let them check it in the gas station". I say go back to basics people. I not afraid to say I'm a car geek and I does check my oil myself. Check your oil when parked on a flat surface. If the engine was running allow a couple minutes for oil to drain down into the sump. Best time for me is before startup on a morning. Do not check while engine is running that is nonsense.
Don't get me wrong either when I say do your own oil analysis. A proper oil analysis will tell you which oil resists breakdown the best under similar conditions. It would be great if anyone has some real info to share because I'm sure we all could learn something. In the meantime, I have my opinion based on my first hand experience. And, with so many brands already named in this thread, I expect and respect other opinions. Just provide enough info like your ODI (oil drain interval) and how may years you using the oil without any issue. This way at least we have something we can compare.
I agree too..... For for the cars that are of year 2000 or lower where the manufacturers use to say oil of 20w50 in this day and age would u recommend they change to something a little bit lighter as....oils have have a long way from then?
Street Wise basically said what I tell everybody. Down to dealership techs overfill the oil on brand new engines and unless you are fussy and check what they've done you may end up with excess oil in the engine. People have to take some initiative when it comes to their vehicles. A simple thing as a spare tire most people cannot change let alone they feel pulling a dip stick is something for an Acura Master Technician to do instead.
For comparison sake, I can say that on a Toyota 2TR(2700cc N/A gas), Shell Helix HX-7 Fully synthetic was used for about 6 out of 8 working years on the engine. The engine has 104,000kms on it now with a switch over to Valvoline last oil change. Engine never has burned a drop of oil, only the tappet pan seal was changed over the 104ks other than routine maintenance.
ODI: 10,000km as per the manual's instructions
Filter: Fram(forgot the model, never leaked, never had issues)